Tuesday, June 29, 2010

http://www.indianetzone.com/18/history_indian_jewellery.htm

http://www.indianetzone.com/18/history_indian_jewellery.htm

http://www.indianetzone.com/18/history_indian_jewellery.htm

http://www.indianetzone.com/18/history_indian_jewellery.htm

Meenakari, Mughal Art in



Meenakari BraceletMeenakari is basically an ancient form of art in India that has been praised since its introduction for the superb designs and combination of colours. From the prime age of this craft, the artisans were named as `meenakar` who were involved in creating different Meenakari items. In some work, the entire object, such as pendant, is covered with this exclusive technique. On a typical pair of `kara` bangles with three-dimensional `makara`, elephant, lion or bird head terminals, additionally decorated with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, as they often were, is a dazzlingly opulent object that embodies a galaxy of goldsmith arts. A special type is `ek rang khula mina`, in which single-colour transparent enamel fills all engraved area, leaving gold outlines exposed around figural details. `Pachrangi mina` (five-colour enamel) is a special multicoloured style of enamelling. The five colours used are `safed` (opaque white), `fakhtai` (opaque light blue) from `fakhta` (a dove), `khula nila` (transparent dark blue), `khula sabz` (transparent green), `khula lal` (transparent red).




History of Meenakari


Meenakari is the art of decorating metal with enamelling. It was introduced by the Mughals though originated in Persia. Raja Man Singh of Amber brought this art to Rajasthan. He invited skilful meenakars from the Mughal palace at Lahore and established them in Jaipur, which became the centre of Meenakari later on in India. Meenakari design needs a high degree of skill and techniques. Colours like red, green and white, dominate this art of enamelling. Nathdwara, Bikaner and Udaipur are the famous centres for silver Meenakari. Pratapgarh is known for glass enamelling. Delhi and Varanasi are also important centres for exclusive Meenakari designs. In India, Meenakari work has developed in the places like Punjab and Lucknow including the other Meenakari centres of India.




Techniques of Meenakari Art


The design for the Meenakari in India is made on the metal surface by the craftsmen called `chitras`. The design is engraved by the `gharias` such that depressions are created. Sometimes the Meenakari is combined with the art of `Kundan` to make the created articles an amalgamation of enamelling and stone carving. After the design is created the enameller applies different colours with brushes on the engraved design. The base is first covered by white or pink enamel, upon which different colours are applied in order of their hardness. It is then heated to enhance the richness of the colours. `Gulabi mina` (pink enamel) is derived from `gulab` (rose) which has been popularly associated with the Varanasi enamelling style. It includes areas of painted enamel, generally flowers, executed in translucent pink on an opaque white ground. All other enamelled areas on the object are created in the `champleve` style, which makes this a mixed style of enamelling. The technique requires at least five separate enamel applications.




When a single transparent coloured enamel is used to fill the ground around an opaque figure, various colour of ground like `lal zamin` (transparent red ground), `sabz zamin` (transparent green ground), `nil zamin` (transparent blue ground) are chosen to contrast with and set off that of the subject. `Bandh mina khaka` (opaque cartouche or outline) is a technique in which the figure in transparent colour is surrounded by an opaque enamel cartouche. The object when ready is polished and cleaned. Generally hand burnishes are used to cover any exposed metal.




Forms of Meenakari Art


Besides jewellery other items which were known for their Meenakari work were various shaped huqqas, pandans, flasks, sprinklers and a lot more.




Huqqas were a favourite item for the Meenakari Artists. Various hues and ambitious designs were used in the Meenakari Art which was part of the huqqas. Different shaped huqqas with the engraved Meenakri work were made during the Mughal period.




Pandan is another piece of art work which sees profuse use of meenakari work. Pandans of the Mughal era are found in all the three metals namely gold, silver and copper.




In conclusion it can be said that both silver and gold metals are used as the base for Meenakari work in India. At present time, Meenakari is done in the metals like silver and copper to suit the need and style of the modern people. In addition to the jewelleries and other items, the Meenakars create exclusive items that serve the decorative purpose. The items that are created with amazing artistry include Meenakari bowl set, chowki set, Hand Casted Meenakari Chowki with White alloy metal, Meenakari arm chair, Meenakari almirah, Meenakari roman chair, Meenakari gun box cum seater, utility box thrones, dining set, decorative frames, key holder, photo frames, ash trays, pen holder etc.

Maintenance of Silver Jewellery

1. Do not store silver with other metals or in jewellery box; always store it in a plastic zip bag.2. Moisture and oxidization can tarnish the metal.3. Do not leave silver jewellery to touch bare wood.4. Silver jewellery should clean with soft cloth.5. In order to remove dirt from silver jewellery use liquid soap and soft bristled brush.6. Silver is a soft metal. Even heavy silver ring will bend while lifting objects so while doing such works remove it off.

Maintenance of Platinum Jewellery

1. In order to clean your platinum jewellery, first add few drops of liquid soap in warm water, mix it well. Dip it in the solution and then take a soft cloth and wipe it gently over the surface of your jewellery after rubbing for few minutes you will be finding clean jewellery.2. While buying platinum jewellery look for markings 950 Plat, 950 Pt, Pt950, Plat, 900 Pt, Pt900 or 900Plat, will assure the quality of your platinum. These markings refer the percentage of platinum used in the piece.3. Keep your platinum jewellery away from other jewellery (it does not damage other jewellery or get scratched).4. Polish and clean your platinum jewellery twice a year by a professional jeweler.5. If you find any scratches in your platinum jewellery ask your jeweler to remove it

Maintenance of Diamond Jewellery

1. Keep your diamond jewellery in a separate box, in order to avoid it from scratches.2. Avoid direct contact of perfumes.3. While doing household works remove your diamond jewellery.4. Clean your diamond jewellery regularly to retain its shine.5. Dip your diamond jewel into the glass filled with vodka, take it after sometime and dry it with soft cloth.6. Drop your diamond jewellery into warm water with liquid soap and take a toothbrush, clean it softly.

Maintenance of Gold Jewellery

1. Safeguard your jewellery from scratches, sunlight, extreme temperatures, harsh chemicals. While swimming avoid wearing jewels. The chlorine in water can damage your gemstone and gold. Gemstone may become loose in its location.2. Store your jewellery separately in order to prevent from scraping with other jewellery.3. Remove your jewellery while doing household works like gardening and cleaning etc.4. Wear your jewellery after applying makeup and hair spray.5. Do not store your jewellery next to window-sill, car dashboard or heating vent.6. Do not store your jewellery in sunlight, it may fade the gemstone.7. Store your bead necklaces flat in order to prevent from damages.8. Clean your jewellery with pumpkin juice to keep it bright forever.9. Proper maintenance on jewellery is very essential in order to prevent from prongs or pearls restrung.10. While buying a gold jewellery one should looke for its “Karat” mark, it determines the percentage of pure gold in it.

Traditional Jewellery

Traditional jewellery indicates the early Indians and how they ornamented themselves from head to toe with variety of jewels. Jewellery has occupied an extensive range from ancient time to present day. Jewelers with excellent skills are found in India. There are wide ranges of jewellery in India from religion to imaginative purity. Indian jewellery is very popular and treasured jewellery. Not only modern Indian jewellery but also traditional jewellery is a remarkable one. Indian marriages are identical to jewellery especially traditional jewellery of India looks rich and unique. There are elite and incredible designs which worked with complete traditional designs of jewellery.
Famous Traditional Jewelry:
There are many renowned traditional jewelry found in India. Armlets, bangles, earrings, necklace, bracelets, nose rings, toe rings, waistbands, fingerings, pendants and anklets. There are many different cultures and regions having their own designs which are unique in nature.
Famous Designs:
South India is famous for its temple designs. Exclusive carved designs are the well known and very famous designs of north. Mirrored and stoned designs are famous in West part of India and beaded works are famous in east part of India.
A symbol of a married girl is toe rings, usually made of silver metal and very rarely in gold. Nose rings are very famous in India. It is used to ware by different cultures of women, right from the small girls to the married women ware nose rings, it looks very traditional. Larger nose rings indicates the wealth of husband. Nath is a nose ring which is make up of pearls and stones used by the women in western part. Anklets are also another traditional jewelry. There are two types of anklets movable and immovable. Anklets are made by flexible joining rings with silver metal it is called movable anklets. Immovable anklet looks like a bangle which is stiff in nature. Traditional jewellery designs are found in certain places. So shopping through online senses more and also saves your time.

Rajkot Jewellery

Rajkot jewellery is famous for colorful stone works and enamel works. Wide varieties of stones are used in Rajkot jewellery. Many young girls as well as housewives like to ware jewels according to their costume color. For those people this is the right choice, because we can find light as well as dark shade stones worked jewels in Rajkot. Weight of these jewels are bit high. Regular cleaning of these jewels are very essential.

Nellore Jewellery

Nellore is prominent for stone worked jewels in less weight. Jewels are available in each and every color. Stone works with light weight is the notable thing in this jewel. Mostly ordinary designs are found in Nellore pattern jewels. Repair cannot be done in this type.

Kundan Jewellery

Kundan is a highly refined gold. It is known as Kundan in India. Kundan is a type of setting used to set precious stones. Along with Meenakari works some hanging works will be done additionally. In India, it is one of the old types of jewelry. Now huge varieties of Kundan Jewellery are available, we can also shop through online and get more benefits

Kundan Jewellery

Kundan is a highly refined gold. It is known as Kundan in India. Kundan is a type of setting used to set precious stones. Along with Meenakari works some hanging works will be done additionally. In India, it is one of the old types of jewelry. Now huge varieties of Kundan Jewellery are available, we can also shop through online and get more benefits

Kemp Jewellery

Kemp jewellery is quiet old and very famous one. It is stiff in nature, so that we can use it regularly. Life is the specialty in Kemp jewellery.
Meenakari works are used in kemp, it looks very colorful. For Meenakari work, stones will be selected first according to the shape of the stones designs will be set. Stones will not be found in same shape and size. Vax is used for Kemp jewellery, it has a disadvantage. Due to vax filling, gold weight cannot be measured exactly.

Hyderabad Jewellery

Hyderabad is not only prominent for pearls but also for beautiful designer jewelery. Jewels from Hyderabad looks very strong (heavy weight jewelry). White stone works plays the major role in Hyderabad jewels.
Traditional as well as fancy jewels are available. Because of its heavy weight and also open cutting, jewels should be cleaned regularly.

Calcutta Jewellery

Netted workmanship is famous in Calcutta pattern jewels, it is known as Philigiri. Philigiri is world wide prominent.Number of varieties is available in Calcutta especially Calcutta bangles are very prominent in South India. Due to its heavy weight, should clean it regularly in order to avoid dust and dirt.

PLATINUM JEWELLERY


The sleek, classic look is set off with sparkling dosham-free diamonds, an ideal complement to thee pristine white of pure platinum.
different types of platinum for an example Eden, Harmony, Icy cube, Misaki, Mystere, Mystique, Princessa, Rosette, and Spice.
Platinum’s purity, rarity and enduring beauty make it the most desired metal, worldwide. Platinum’s purity ensures that the jewellery never fades or changes colour and also retains its shine for years. And more over, platinum is skin friendly.
Platinum Jewelry looks stylish to wear with the combination of gold jewelry. The white colour of the platinum wonderfully contrasts with the yellow gold. Platinum is the hardest and precious metal which never becomes dull. We cannot find a jewel more attractive, precious, and gorgeous than platinum. Platinum has a quality of hypo-allergenic so it won’t irritate the sensitive skin.
We can wear it regularly. Scratches damage other jewellery but it won’t damage platinum jewellery. Other metals can get dull or discolour but platinum always maintains its brilliance, weight and colour even when it gets damage.
Real Platinum
Every piece of authentic platinum jewellery has a unique identification number, which is stamped on it. You can get the quality assurance card that carries the unique identification number along with the weight and purity of the jewellery piece. You can get the platinum jewellery you purchase has a minimum purity 95%.

SILVER JEWELLERY


Silver is a white shiny metal. It is referred as a metal of moon. Some people believed that it has a power over sentiments, love, extrasensory mind and curative nature. Silver is a white and soft metal. So it is easily mixed with an alloy like copper.

Jotha Akbar Jewellery



Jothabai jewellery is a combination of meenakari, kundan and jadaav works. It is made up of many colourful stones and enamel, looks very stylish and traditional. Jothabai jewellery are used in many north Indian weddings. Kundan stones cannot find in same shape, so stones will be selected first and according to that designs will be made, it is the speciality of Meenakari worked Jewellery. Kundan Necklace, earrings, bangles etc are very famous. The hanging of pearls at the end of jewel is considered as a special feature of kundan jewellery. Jothabai set was made in 666 grams that is 83.24 sovereign.

NAGAS



Nagas is a hand made jewel, looks traditional. Nagas are available in three colours. They are black, red and yellow. The colours can be changed by using antique polish. On those days vax filling was used while making Nagas. Nagas looks very beautiful; even now many youngsters like to wear Nagas. On those days vax filling took place while making Nagas, due to vax filling we cannot measure the accurate weight of gold only approximate weight was given to customers. But now we (Gandhipuram Sri Lakshmi Jewellery) are using latest techniques and also avoiding vax filling, this looks very attractive.


Kerala is a state famous for its traditional jewellery. Kerala’s traditional jewels are Kasu malai, Mullai Poo Malai, Maanga Malai, Jimuki, Poo-thali, Palakka Necklace, Mani malai etc. Kerala is well-known for its beautiful designs and less weighted jewels. Now-a-days young girls are showing their interest in Kerala jewels because of its designs and also it looks big in size. Due to its less weight we should handle it safely.Traditional jewellery of Kerala and their weight history (how many grams are need for making it) are given below:Kasu malai ---> 32 gramsJimuki ---> 6 gramsChain 24 inches ---> 8 gramsChain 18 inches ---> 6 gramsKerala Bangle ---> 6 gramsMaanga malai ---> 32 grams

Gold Plating


A thin layer of gold is applied to another metal is called gold plating. The benefits of gold plating is the appearance, it looks like gold. The cost of gold plated jewels is less when compared with gold. It is commonly used in silver jewelry and also gold plating is used for decorative purpose. At least 10 karat of gold is applied in gold plated jewelry. The beauty of the gold plated jewelry depends upon the thickness of the plating. Now-a-days gold plated jewels are sold in the name of gold jewelry. By conducting the acid test we can easily find out the real gold and plated gold. So purchasing gold jewelry in a branded showroom is more advisable.Types of gold plating:1. Bright and hard gold plating2. Soft and pure gold plating

Famous Designs



South India is famous for its temple designs. Exclusive carved designs are the well known and very famous designs of north. Mirrored and stoned designs are famous in West part of India and beaded works are famous in east part of India.A symbol of a married girl is toe rings, usually made of silver metal and very rarely in gold. Nose rings are very famous in India. It is used to ware by different cultures of women, right from the small girls to the married women ware nose rings, it looks very traditional. Larger nose rings indicates the wealth of husband. Nath is a nose ring which is make up of pearls and stones used by the women in western part. Anklets are also another traditional jewelry. There are two types of anklets movable and immovable. Anklets are made by flexible joining rings with silver metal it is called movable anklets. Immovable anklet looks like a bangle which is stiff in nature.Traditional jewellery designs are found in certain places. So shopping through online senses more and also saves your time.

Traditional Jewellery



Traditional jewellery indicates the early Indians and how they ornamented themselves from head to toe with variety of jewels. Jewellery has occupied an extensive range from ancient time to present day. Jewelers with excellent skills are found in India. There are wide ranges of jewellery in India from religion to imaginative purity. Indian jewellery is very popular and treasured jewellery. Not only modern Indian jewellery but also traditional jewellery is a remarkable one. Indian marriages are identical to jewellery especially traditional jewellery of India looks rich and unique. There are elite and incredible designs which worked with complete traditional designs of jewellery.There are many renowned traditional jewelry found in India. Armlets, bangles, earrings, necklace, bracelets, nose rings, toe rings, waistbands, fingerings, pendants and anklets. There are many different cultures and regions having their own designs which are unique in nature.

DIAMOND JEWELLERY


What is Diamond?
The name diamond is derived from Greek word Adamas which means unbreakable or invincible. A clear portion of diamond is cut and polished; it is valued as an expensive gemstone. It is a hard crystalline carbon. Diamond is also called as prince of gems. Diamond is a gem of high refraction, reflection, and dispersion of light. Diamond is the hardest minerals. Today diamond is the world’s ultimate symbol of wealth.
4Cs of DiamondsDiamonds are calculated by its four Cs Colour, Cut, Carat and Clarity.Colour:Colorless diamonds are the most attractive since they allow the most refraction of light. Diamonds also come in a wide range of other colours such as red, blue, green and bright yellow. These are marked as Z+ and are known as fancy diamonds. Diamond starts its colour with the alphabet ‘D’.D,E,F----->ColorlessG,H,I,J--->Near colorlessK,L,M----->Faint YellowN,R------->Very Light YellowS,Z------->Light YellowCut:Cut is most likely significant and demanding of the four Cs to understand. The brightness of a diamond depends a lot on its cut. The most accepted cut for a diamond is the round brilliant cut.Carat:Is the unit of weight for the diamond. A carat is further subdivided in 100 points (0.01 cart = 1 point). One carat is equal to 0.20 grams. Value per carat increases with carat size, because larger rough diamonds occur less regularly, In other words, 2 half-carat diamonds taken together will not cost as much as 1 one-carat diamond, as the one-carat stone is more rare.Clarity:It is very familiar for diamonds to be formed with little imperfections. These are known as ‘inclusions’. A diamond’s clarity ranking is strong-minded by the number, size, type and placement of the inclusions.How to safeguard your Diamond1. Maintaining your diamond jewelry is very important in order to keep it sparkling forever. Skin oil and dust cause your diamond jewelry to loose it sparkle. Clean your diamond regularly with soap and water and allow them to air dry before polishing them with a soft cloth.2. Storing your diamond individually in a soft cloth pouch, it prevents from bumping with each other.3. In order to keep your diamond clean brush it with soft bristle toothbrush, it helps to remove the dirt which is deposited in the gap.4. Make sure your diamonds are sitting tight in their settings to avoid stones from falling out.5. By using stream and ultrasound a jeweler can clean diamonds. Ultrasound can sometimes worsen internal splits or defects.

Gold Jewellery

“Smart people save gold”. Gold has been a traditional form of investment apart from being a favorite gift at marriages and festivals.Savings through gold is always wise and fruitful besides safety.
Pure gold is without a mixing of other metal. It is skin friendly in nature. While purchasing a gold jewelry see whether you are purchasing jewelry without mixing of other metals with gold. Notice the trademark on the karat number.
Gold is a very ductile (able to make into wire) and malleable (hammerable) in nature. It is a brilliant yellow precious metal that is resistant to corrosion by air and water. It is very soft when pure (24 karat). Pure gold is expensive and soft in nature. Because of its soft nature it is alloyed with base metal for the use of jewelry. Copper is used as a base metal for making jewelry. he mixing of gold with other metal can change the colour of gold. The colour of pure gold is Bright yellow.
The word gold means yellow. It is from Latin word ‘Aurum’. Aurum has a meaning of “Glowing Dawn”. The word gold origin from Indo-European root word. Gold has a symbol of AU. If you think banks of life insurance are only means of saving; savings through gold is always wise and fruitful besides safety. Gold commonly occurs in its native forms. It is the first metal mined on earth. Gold is beautiful and endurable in nature. Gold objects were made before 5000 years. Supplies of gold from various deposits of Middle East appeared during ancient civilizations. Gold is known as “noble” metal because it does not oxidize under normal condition. The pure form of gold has a metallic shine. It has a colour of sun yellow. The mixing of other metal like silver, copper, nickel, tellurium, platinum etc with gold causes color hues from silver-white to green and orange-red. Pure gold is soft in nature. It has chemical similarity of gold. If gold like material is added with mercury both the metal forms amalgam. The prospectors of the gold-bearing country look for gold where coarse sands and gravel have accumulated in the back sands. Gold has been deposited in these black sands. The black sands consist of the most common mineral called Magnetite. Many precious metals like cassiterite, gem stones, ilmenite, platinum-group metals, monazite, and chromite are also present. Biggest gold mine in the USA is South Dakota and Homestake mine. This mine is 8000 feet deep, accounted for almost 10% of total gold production.Varieties of Gold
Before you go to pick your gold, it makes sense to know the types of gold there are and how they are used. “Gold Filled” and “Gold Overlay” refers to a layer of at least 10 karat gold that has been permanently bonded by heat and pressure to one or more surfaces of the support metal, and then rolled down or drawn to a prescribed thickness. The karat gold must be at least one-tenth of the total weight.Gold plate implies that a layer of plating of 10 karat gold or better has been bonded to a base metal. The karat gold content may be less than one-twentieth, but it must be properly identified by weight in terms of total metal content. Gold leaf is gold plating that has been pounded and applied by hand.
Pure gold is bright golden yellow in colour. Other metals are alloyed with gold to give strength to the gold.
Rose Gold – Rose gold is slightly reddish shade. This colour change is due to mixing of copper.
White Gold – It looks pale because it is almost silver coloured gold. It causes due to nickel.
Green Gold – Green gold is slight greenish in colour. It is due to mixing of copper and silver.
Blue gold – Blue gold with slight bluish shade. This is caused by iron.
Gold Standards
Carat, the percentage of real gold in the piece. 24K is 100% gold, 18K is 75% gold, 14K is 58.3% gold, 10K is 41.7% gold. The rest of the metal is made of a blend (alloys) of other metals that give it strength and durability. These include copper, silver, nickel and zinc.
Gold Certifications
BIS Hallmark
BIS is Bureau of Indian Standards. It has been identified by Government of India, as a sole agency to operate this scheme in India. This is operating under BIS Act and also voluntary in nature. Rules and regulations of BIS are followed.The BIS hallmarking scheme has been linked with International principles on hallmarking. License has been approved to the jewelers by BIS under hallmarking scheme. The certified jewelers can get their jewellery hallmarked from any recognized BIS examining and hallmarking centre. The reorganizations to this centre will be given against BIS criteria Document, HMS/RAHC/GO1 which is in line with International criteria on Marking and Control of Precious metals.
958 Corresponding to 23 Karat
916 Corresponding to 22 Karat
875 Corresponding to 21 Karat
750 Corresponding to 18 Karat
585 Corresponding to 14 Karat
375 Corresponding to 9 Karat
916 KDM Jewels
Gold jewellery from certain places is marked with KDM stamp. It means that the jewellery was soldered with Cadmium. Cadmium is nothing but Kadium. Kadium denotes the purity of gold. KDM was habitually used in joining of gold jewelry for its good properties of liquidity and melting at lower temperatures. Purity of gold represents the percentage of gold in the metal. KDM has a logo and certificate with KDM mark. The real gold mark is hallmarked logo. Hallmarked jewellery has logo with 22K or 18K gold. Now-a-days, jewelers are using gold solders, which are free from Cadmium.